Thirty Acres

Photo is of June Afternoon, by Konstantine Rodko, from the cover of the 1991 edition of Trente arpents by Flammarion.

Trente arpents ( translated into English as « Thirty Acres, » but « Twenty-Five » would have been more accurate) is the tragic story of the rise and fall of turn-of-the-last-century farmer Euchariste Moisan, as told by québécois novelist Ringuet (Philippe Panneton, b. 1895 – d. 1960). Contemporary farmers can still identify with Moisan, who, by dint of immeasurable effort, hard work and selfless sacrifice over many years, became a prosperous farmer in his 50s. But life’s rewards are not always proportionate to the efforts expended, and a nefarious combination of misfortune and poor judgment lead Moisan to his downfall, the loss of his farm, and an end-of-life exile in a New England town. Ringuet captures the essence of the farmer’s soul, his deep attachment to the land and the changing seasons, and his innermost conviction that nothing is earned without effort and sacrifice. Ringuet masterfully portrays Euchariste Moisan and other characters in the novel, endearing them to the reader who hopes for a happy ending, despite the unfolding tragedy. The author’s knowledge of things agricultural is impressive, and readers with some familiarity with life on the farm will be surprised by his references to activities and ways of doing which persist today, despite years of mechanisation (in the 30s, farmwork was with (real) horsepower, without man-made chemicals and with lots and lots of elbow grease). The most surprising aspect of the book is its literary style, which ranges from a sophisticated, almost academic, prose to the rough joual of its protagonists. Many of the expressions he quotes are still popular today. The book ends almost ruefully, as Ringuet makes the reader share Moisan’s regret that his life has not ended as he had intended. Destiny has decided otherwise, as he loses everything and is forced into American exile instead of a peaceful existence on his land, surrounded by his loved ones – a truly tragic end for a man whose first  (and possibly only) true love was his land.

Turnips to taxis

We should have known this before embarking on our agricultural adventure, but it is only recently that we learned that the patron saint of gardeners is Saint Fiacre (Fiachra is an ancient pre-Christian name from Ireland). Apparently he was as effective at healing haemorrhoids as he was at growing turnips. Saint Fiacre, represented more often than not holding a spade, was long a popular patron saint. Although he lived in Ireland and France in the 7th century A.D., his popularity surged in the 10th century. His interest in things agricultural manifested itself, or so the story goes, when he founded a monastery and gardens, the bounty of which was shared with beggars, passersby and travelers. Legend also has it that the Bishop Faro de Meaux allowed him as much land as he might entrench in one day with a furrow, so Fiacre turned up the earth with the point of his staff, toppling trees and uprooting briers and weeds. It is this staff which morphed over time into his gardener’s spade. Finally, there is the bit about the origin of the French word ‘fiacre,’ used to designate a small horse-drawn four-wheeled carriage. This term is attributed to the fact that the Hotel de Saint Fiacre in Paris rented carriages beginning in the late 17th century. People who had no idea who Fiacre was referred to the small coaches for hire as “fiacres”. And so it is that the patron saint of gardeners, almost miraculously it seems, became the patron saint of … taxi drivers.

Happy Holidays

With the mercury dipping below 20 degrees Celsius in these parts, we can speak in earnest of winter delights (albeit sans snow). Our cold room is empty, the farm implements are stored and the few chores remaining to be completed without getting frostbitten have been ticked off our list. And so we resume writing, after a brief hiatus, to keep you posted on what’s up. We are in the thick of preparing for the coming year, having spent the past two weeks compulsively flipping through seed catalogues to place our seed orders. While at first glance tedious – vegetable varieties seem infinite, the seed selection process is a portent of hope. We revisit the past season, our successful, and not-so-successful, plantings, and vow next season will be our best yet as we select a better variety of a given vegetable. Because, as well you must understand – it’s never the farmer’s fault… Our orders have finally been sent off.  We should receive our seeds in January; they’ll be kept cool and dry, like garlic, until we start up the greenhouse, towards the end of March.

In the meantime, Arlington Gardens wishes you a happy holiday season and a healthy 2012. See you next year!

The first fall frost welcomed us in the fields this morning. You know there is no turning back to summer once frost has hit, even if, as they are forecasting this Thanksgiving weekend, it is followed by a balmy Indian summer spell. While some vegetables resist, and even relish, frost (brocoli, jerusalem artichokes and lettuce, to name a few), others, such as eggplant, peppers and zucchini, wilt at the first hint of sub-zero temperatures. Cooler nights in September triggered the seasonal migration of mice from field to farm buildings, where relative warmth and shelter beckon. As a result, the latest additions to the farm a couple of weeks ago are two 6-month-old cats, Castor and Pollux. We have high hopes that they will grow into tough barn cats, guarding seeds and grain and keeping the mouse population under tight control. While neither the mice nor the cats seem to mind, the warehouse, which is nice and cool in the heat of summer, has turned ice-boxy – a frigid 4 degrees Celsius this morning. Usually, when we assemble baskets, they go into the cold room for a few hours’ storage before loading up the delivery van. No need this morning though — we simply left the baskets on the assembly shelves, like veggies on a fridge shelf.

Mechoui

A week ago we held our first formal farm event for our CSA members, a méchoui . The weather couldn’t have been more perfect, after a couple of weeks of on-again, off-again rain – a balmy, sun-filled afternoon with nary a cloud in sight.

We hadn’t really planned it when we chose the date, but Sunday, September 11, was also the 9th edition of the annual ‘portes ouvertes sur les fermes du Québec’ event. Nearly 100 people showed up at Arlington Gardens for our méchoui and a tour of the farm, while more than 126,000 visited farms across Quebec the same day.

For those of you wondering where the term méchoui comes from, Wikipedia offers the following brief explanation: “In the cuisine of Northern Africa, méchoui is a whole sheep or a lamb spit-roasted on a barbecue. The word comes from the Arabic word šawa,which means ‘grilled, roasted’. This dish is very popular in North Africa.” There was no question we had to do a méchoui as our first farm happening…A banal corn roast just wouldn’t cut it. In addition to the de rigueur spit-roasted sheep, we also had ham hocks roasting in the same maple-burning oven.  Libations were abundant and varied – ranging from wine to water and everything in between. The formula was ‘potluck,’ so guests came laden with delicious vegetarian and side dishes, and scrumptious desserts.

A fun time was had by all – or so we’re told – and we’ve already started thinking about next year’s event: maybe a déjeuner sur l’herbe on the river’s edge…

But half the basket season still to go! Indeed, this week — Week 8 — marks the midpoint of the official 2011 growing season,  even though the end of summer is just around the corner. The annual Perseid meteor shower peaked last week, our late season tomatoes are ripening on the vine, we’ve picked our watermelon already, the corn harvest is in full swing, and our first squash (spaghetti) is ripe for the picking. Morning and evening dews are heavy, dawn is a bit later, dusk a bit earlier…all signs of summer drawing to a close. End of season soccer tournaments, school supply lists and one last road trip echo nature’s prelude to Fall.

The month of July was exhausting, with yo-yoing temperatures and countless fires to put out. August looks promising in comparison. We have begun harvesting the season’s first melons – they are truly delicious – as well as those summer stalwarts: eggplants, peppers and the quintessential tomato, which weighs heavy on the vine in great abundance this year. While we had extended an invitation to our partners to come pick garlic with us, the July heat wave precipitated things and we had to harvest it quickly, the four bottom leaves having dried out more quickly than expected. In the CSA calendar, August signals the beginning of more intense harvesting as the farm schedule shifts from a balanced mix of seeding, weeding, monitoring, transplanting and harvesting, to a lop-sided one where the first four activities are greatly reduced relative to the last one. While planting continues, it is at a much diminished pace compared to earlier months. The farm’s life cycle shifts, and suddenly our thoughts turn to a to-do list of pre-end-of-season fieldwork, barn repairs, fence mending and countless other pressing things that had been postponed during the frenzy of early summer.

Eggsplanation

We are often asked how our eggs get their color – so thought it would be nice to set the record straight: our white hens (Leghorns) lay white eggs, our others (Plymouth Rocks and Rhode Island Reds) lay brown eggs. When young (i.e. 18 to 24 weeks), hens produce smaller eggs; older hens produce larger eggs. While in the prime of youth – until about age one year – hens lay beautiful eggs, whiter-than-white or dark brown, and often. As they age, they produce fewer eggs and their colour changes: the white becomes creamier, and the brown lightens. The two colors remain quite distinct, but they are definitely paler versions of their original shades. Egg yolk color is straightforward to explain: the egg yolks become darker as the season progresses and our hens eat more vegetable scraps and insects. When fed only grain (during winter, for example), the yolk is much paler.

Not much time to write, as we prepare for the deliveries of our first baskets before the Saint-Jean weekend…A few pictures are more telling than words : while we will continue to start plants from seed in the greenhouse through July, our recent focus has been on planting and transplanting in the field. Many mid- to late-summer plants are transplanted onto plastic-covered rows to minimize weeding (zucchini, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes and melons, to name a few), but most early-season veggies are not on plastic and once in the soil, require old-fashioned, and diligent, weeding…

It is difficult to speak of anything other than rain these days. There has been so much of it these last few weeks that some sections of our fields just aren’t draining. You can forget the use of most farm equipment in the soggy patches. Given the nature of our soil, tractor treads would take weeks to disappear. Soil compaction has become our nemesis. Abundant rainfall does have some advantages, though: our hay fields are incredibly lush and intensely green. Agriculturally speaking, it is possible to cultivate vegetables even in diluvial conditions. We are discovering – and appreciating –  every hillock in our fields offering better planting conditions; needless to say, raised beds are also a plus in the circumstances. Despite the shortage of sunshine, our veggies are doing fine, especially our spring greens (they wilt in excessive heat). At the rate things are going, our lettuce will be delicious. That said, like you, we are hoping for sun-filled days – in a ratio of 3 to 1.

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